To set the keel height for the kayak replica, I start by noting the deck beam locations on the drawing, and then I measure the keel heights at those locations.
Next I double check my sheer line and note any difference from the drawing so I remember to compensate for it if needed. I can live with a little bit of sheer discrepancy, (in this case 1/2”) but I want the underwater portion of the kayak to closely match the original.
To support the keel I clamp a handful of T-shaped blocks to the deck beams, and then clamp the keel alongside them to the heights noted on the drawing, minus any adjustments for sheer differences.
Next I make blocks that are equal to the rocker shown on the drawing and stretch a string between them and compare that to what I’m seeing on the drawing and if the two don’t agree try to figure out why.
After that I hold the stems against the ends to check the distance from the end of the stem to the keel intersection and make sure that matches the drawing as well.
From there I will look at interior photographs of the original if available and try to guess how much the original has collapsed over time. For this kayak I’m guessing not at all in the bow, 1/4” in the foot area, 1/2” in the center, and 1/4” in the stern.
After adding these heights, I fair the line, I mark the keel height on the blocks, cut to those lines, and then screw the keel down to blocks.
It’s only about two hours of work but it takes me about six hours of quadruple checking everything just to make sure I haven’t made any mistakes.
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