David’s custom canoe seat


Check out this brilliant seat that one of my students designed for his pack canoe.  David is an excellent craftsman and is one of the few people that we have given a commercial license to teach our designs.  I like to keep things a bit more simple than this, (although you wouldn’t know it from my current project) but it’s tempting to throw one of these together, just to see how I like it.  Here’s what David has to say about it:
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“Hello Brian,
I’ve been wanting to share a seat design I’ve been using that I thought you’d be interested in.  A couple notes:
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- I’ve been using 1/2”, 1/4” and !/8” baltic birch plywood. It isn’t exterior grade but the quality and number of plys work well.
- When routing the rib notch, I pitch the router 10 degrees to accommodate the 10 degree cant of the vertical parts.
- The seat bottom and back are 1/2” closed cell foam contact cemented to 1/8” plywood and lashed onto the frame. The 1/8” plywood seems light for the job but the first one I made is 2 seasons old and holding up well. 
- The locking lever just stops the seat from sliding forward to disengage the rib notches.
- The foot braces lock in the same way and really help me lock into the seat.
Even if this isn’t usable for your current project, I’m curious what you think. I find these seats very comfortable.”
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I think it’s some darn fine work.  I’ll have to build one when I get a chance and if I like it, maybe I’ll add it to the plan set!
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Check out this brilliant seat that one of my students designed for his pack canoe. David is an excellent craftsman and is one of the few people that we have given a commercial license to teach our designs. I like to keep things a bit more simple than this, (although you wouldn’t know it from my current project) but it’s tempting to throw one of these together, just to see how I like it. Here’s what David has to say about it:

“Hello Brian,
I’ve been wanting to share a seat design I’ve been using that I thought you’d be interested in. A couple notes:
– I’ve been using 1/2”, 1/4” and 1/8” baltic birch plywood. It isn’t exterior grade but the quality and number of plys work well.
– When routing the rib notch, I pitch the router 10 degrees to accommodate the 10 degree cant of the vertical parts.
– The seat bottom and back are 1/2” closed cell foam contact cemented to 1/8” plywood and lashed onto the frame. The 1/8” plywood seems light for the job but the first one I made is 2 seasons old and holding up well.
– The locking lever just stops the seat from sliding forward to disengage the rib notches.
– The foot braces lock in the same way and really help me lock into the seat.
Even if this isn’t usable for your current project, I’m curious what you think. I find these seats very comfortable.”

I think it’s some darn fine work. I’ll have to build one when I get a chance and if I like it, maybe I’ll add it to the plan set!

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This post was originally featured on our Instagram feed.
See the original post and discussion here.

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