Day 14, Skin-on-frame rower-sailer

Day 14) skin-on-frame row/sail canoe. 5 hrs.
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Started the day with the boat on the sidewalk and stuffed rolled up beach towels under the sides to get it firmly level. Dropped in the mast step and clamped on the partners and raised the mast. I always leave the two feet above the partners straight before starting my mast taper because then all one has to do is clamp on two levels, nudge things around, and voila, dead straight. Most builders have these 3 levels.
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I’m using the same system I use on the pack canoes to make a movable thwart to make a removable partners. More on that in future posts. I burned about an hour and a half trying to decide if I wanted to install partners behind the passenger seat as well. I ultimately ruled against it on grounds of weight and complexity. I’m already over my self imposed weight limit, and once you have 2 partners it isn’t long before you’re having micro-yawl fantasies that are likely just going to lead to frustration in real life. Better to keep things simple. I may change my mind on this, a simple cross member makes a nice backrest, ties the frame together, and provides a ‘high seat’ for taking pictures and whatnot.
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Carved the alternate foil for the flip-over leeboard, this time out of a pricey chunk of CVG fir 1x8 (3/4 true). Took the time to make a proper torture board, something I should have done years ago. These are the fairest foils I’ve ever made. Both boards the 7/8 x 9 1/4 and the 3/4 x 7 1/2 will have the same underwater surface area. It will be interesting to see which on performs better. I like the thick short laminated one because it’s cheap, and tucks smartly under the center thwart. I like the solid one because it’s a lot lighter, and no waiting on glue ups. I go with fir because it’s reasonably tough and I don’t plan on glassing these.
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All the bits are finally ready for varnish! .
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Day 14, Skin-on-frame rower-sailer. Build time: 5 hrs.

Started the day with the boat on the sidewalk and stuffed rolled up beach towels under the sides to get it firmly level. Dropped in the mast step and clamped on the partners and raised the mast. I always leave the two feet above the partners straight before starting my mast taper because then all one has to do is clamp on two levels, nudge things around, and voila, dead straight. Most builders have these 3 levels.

I’m using the same system I use on the pack canoes to make a movable thwart to make a removable partners. More on that in future posts. I burned about an hour and a half trying to decide if I wanted to install partners behind the passenger seat as well. I ultimately ruled against it on grounds of weight and complexity. I’m already over my self imposed weight limit, and once you have 2 partners it isn’t long before you’re having micro-yawl fantasies that are likely just going to lead to frustration in real life. Better to keep things simple. I may change my mind on this, a simple cross member makes a nice backrest, ties the frame together, and provides a ‘high seat’ for taking pictures and whatnot.

Carved the alternate foil for the flip-over leeboard, this time out of a pricey chunk of CVG fir 1×8 (3/4 true). Took the time to make a proper torture board, something I should have done years ago. These are the fairest foils I’ve ever made. Both boards the 7/8 x 9 1/4 and the 3/4 x 7 1/2 will have the same underwater surface area. It will be interesting to see which on performs better. I like the thick short laminated one because it’s cheap, and tucks smartly under the center thwart. I like the solid one because it’s a lot lighter, and no waiting on glue ups. I go with fir because it’s reasonably tough and I don’t plan on glassing these.

All the bits are finally ready for varnish! .