Day 7: Row/sail canoe version 2


Day 7) row/sail canoe version 2.  6hrs.
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Marked the oar socket positions, made rub rails, made removable floor boards.
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I typically avoid floor boards wherever possible.  They add a lot of unnecessary weight, expense, and time to a build.  A thin pad in the bottom is all that is generally needed to protect the frame.
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For rowboats and possibly hard working tandems floorboards start to make sense.  I always make them removable so I can clean underneath and I like to cut a hole towards the center the same diameter as my bilge pump.
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A 2x6 cut in half and then resawn to make 8ea 2 5/8 x 9/32 boards gives perfect material yield and is just the right coverage.  I use 5/8” stainless screws because little brass screws are garbage and I can’t afford bronze and food.
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It seems trivial but one thing I’ve learned is not to space them any wider than 1/8 inch apart.  The temptation is to go a pencil width but then your boards become traps for all sorts of annoying debris.
.
I also avoid sanding or if I do I never go past 120 grit so the varnish leaves a rough surface for traction.
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Finally I always add some means to hold them in place because it’s bad form for your boards to float out in a capsize.
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Day 7, Row/sail canoe version 2. Build time: 6hrs.

Marked the oar socket positions, made rub rails, made removable floor boards.

I typically avoid floor boards wherever possible. They add a lot of unnecessary weight, expense, and time to a build. A thin pad in the bottom is all that is generally needed to protect the frame.

For rowboats and possibly hard working tandems floorboards start to make sense. I always make them removable so I can clean underneath and I like to cut a hole towards the center the same diameter as my bilge pump.

A 2×6 cut in half and then resawn to make 8ea 2 5/8 x 9/32 boards gives perfect material yield and is just the right coverage. I use 5/8” stainless screws because little brass screws are garbage and I can’t afford bronze and food.

It seems trivial but one thing I’ve learned is not to space them any wider than 1/8 inch apart. The temptation is to go a pencil width but then your boards become traps for all sorts of annoying debris.

I also avoid sanding or if I do I never go past 120 grit so the varnish leaves a rough surface for traction.

Finally I always add some means to hold them in place because it’s bad form for your boards to float out in a capsize.

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