We start again. For the next iteration of this kayak I’m going to focus on improving the frame, expanding the size ranges, proofing the new rib measuring formula, and dialing in the new fitting system. I’m also going to bump the sheer a little higher on the ends to get a bit closer to the original.
I’m starting with a 2% scale up because I think that would be a better size for our middle size on this kayak. This will give me a kayak that is 16‘8“ long and 20 1/2 inches wide, which is still well within the historic size range and is a better starting point to scale up or down for larger or smaller paddlers.
I’m reducing the rib spacing by 15% which isn’t necessary at this size but will help to prevent hull collapse in the larger sizes and significantly extend the lifespan of the frame.
This means a change in deck beam locations, however, to avoid the two being stacked on top of each other and potentially creating a weak spot. Again, not an issue in the standard version but needed for the low volume version with less tall gunwales.
I’m giving myself a slightly freer hand with the design on this one, but I still want to keep things within the historic range so I spent an entire day with Harvey Golden‘s book Kayaks of Greenland, trying to really fix in my mind the key elements of kayaks from this time period.
Finally, as always I spent quite a bit of time trying to get all the deck beam, rib, and form locations on even inch spacing just to make the layout as easy as possible for myself and my students. Easy measuring, simple tools, and common lumber sizes are all important to me when I’m making a plan set.
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