We start again. For the next iteration of this kayak I’m going to focus on improving the frame, expanding the size ranges, proofing the new rib measuring formula, and dialing in the new fitting system. I’m also going to bump the sheer a little higher on the ends to get a bit closer to...
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Just a couple more pictures of the recent Greenland kayak
Just a couple more pictures of the recent Greenland kayak build. I used rare earth pigment directly in the coating this time and really like the color. It’s a lot harder to get a nice finish with rare earth pigment than with acid dye, and the colors are limited, but if you manage to...
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Video: West Greenland build recap
So just to recap, the kayak pictured here is a West Greenland hunting kayak replica that I’ve been building with students for about 12 years. Over that time it has slowly evolved, so I wanted to build a new one as close to the historic lines as possible to check for negative design creep...
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West Greenland kayak buid: Adding a drop skeg
So before I talk about the skeg on this Greenland kayak I just want be clear that I’m not a big fan of skegs in the first place. In some kayaks a skeg can help with tracking in certain conditions, but they also add significant weight, drag, build time, and cost, not to mention...
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West Greenland kayak buid: Installing the leather deck lines
Skin on frame kayak building is surprisingly easy with one big exception: threading the deck lines. I start with thick English bridle leather straps, stretching and rounding them by pulling them through successively smaller holes until the smallest hole takes my full body weight to pull the line through. Next I burn holes in...
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West Greenland kayak buid: Coating the kayak
The coating I use is the 2 part polyurethane sold by skinboats.org. This catalyzed 100% solids product is super tough, relatively non-toxic, relatively inexpensive, and lightning fast compared to any other way you can finish a kayak. The downsides are that it’s not UV resistant and it’s also not recoatable. Just like any finish,...
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West Greenland kayak buid: Our skinning system
I think I’m going to start offering just the skinning portion of my kayak building course separately so people aren’t building one of my kayaks can still take advantage of our skinning and coating techniques. It’s not exactly rocket science, but there’s a zillion little things that can go wrong and ruin the finished...
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West Greenland kayak buid: Replacing the lashings with nails
I was concerned that the oil in the lashings wasn’t going to dry in time for me to skin the next day, so as a nod to the original museum kayak, I decided to nail the ribs to the stringers and then cut away the lashings. This may be the traditional attachment method for...
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West Greenland kayak build: Fitting the masik
The challenge with fitting Greenland kayaks is that they need to be tight to perform properly, but they can’t be so tight that you risk getting trapped if you need to do a wet exit. (This wasn’t an issue for arctic kayak hunters because a wet exit in 33° water with bearskin pants on...
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West Greenland kayak build: Adding seating
Even when lengthened beyond their historic size, greenland kayak cockpits are notoriously tight. There’s also nothing for back support, but unfortunately adding a backband like I do in my modern designs creates an entrapment hazard. (Seriously, don’t put a backband in a traditional Greenland Kayak, you could die.) I’ve been experimenting with different solutions...
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Video: West Greenland kayak build: Lashing on the keel and stringers
After bending in the ribs I clamp the keel and stringers on as soon as possible to smooth out the shape while the ribs are still pliable. Next I attach the stringers with a continuous lashing of flat artificial sinew (waxed polyester). Continuous lashings and individual lashings were common on historic kayaks and any...
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Video: West Greenland kayak build: Bending in the ribs
I spent the first half of the day rechecking all of my measurements and carefully documenting the changes that I’ve made from the earlier version of this kayak. None of this is particularly challenging, I’m just notoriously error prone so checking my own work takes a lot longer than it should. After a sufficient...
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West Greenland kayak build: Bending test ribs
To determine the rib lengths for a new kayak replica I start by slicing up some 1/8 thick bending oak and then steam bend the thin strips under the keel by eye. The secret here is to just keep cutting and bending and not overthink things. The whole operation should take about 20 minutes....
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West Greenland kayak build: Setting the keel height
To set the keel height for the kayak replica, I start by noting the deck beam locations on the drawing, and then I measure the keel heights at those locations. Next I double check my sheer line and note any difference from the drawing so I remember to compensate for it if needed. I...
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West Greenland kayak build: Cutting tenons and pegging deck beams in place
Yesterday I laid out the deck beams, cut the tenons, and installed the deck beams. Traditionally these would have been through mortised and sometimes shouldered, sometimes not. I place the tenon in one quadrant of the deck beam because it’s easier to build this way and creates accurate shoulders that helps the gunwales hold...
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